Cougères

In a small bowl, whisk 1 of the eggs and set aside. Crack the remaining eggs into a separate bowl or measuring cup with a spout. Do not mix; set aside.

To make the choux paste, combine the water, butter, and salt in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Melt the butter and bring the mixture to a full boil. Immediately add the flour, all at once, and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon. Continue stirring until the mixture forms a smooth ball that pulls away from the sides of the pan and a film forms on the bottom of the pan, at least 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and continue beating the mixture to remove any excess moisture and dry out the dough, at least 1 to 2 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and let cool slightly then add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly with a wooden spoon after each addition. The dough should be shiny and smooth. To test the consistency, use a wooden spoon to scoop out as much of the dough as possible. Hold the wooden spoon over the pot and turn it on its side. If the dough is ready, it will fall from the spoon in a thick plop or dollop. If the dough is too thick, it will just stick to the side of the spoon. If the the dough is too thick, add a small amount of the 1 reserved beaten egg to achieve the right consistency. Be careful not to add too much of the reserved egg or the dough will become too thin. If the dough falls from the spoon like a sheet, it’s too thin and you’ll need to start over. When in doubt, it’s better to have a slightly dry dough to ensure gougères that puff properly when baking. Add the coarsely grated Comté, along with the Dijon mustard and ground mustard, if using. Season with the pepper.

Place the choux paste in a pastry bag fitted with a large tip. Pipe a small amount of dough in the corners of a baking sheet then line the baking sheet with parchment paper. Pipe roughly 4 cm gougères onto the parchment-lined baking sheet, allowing enough room for them to double in size. Use your fingertips to gently brush the tops of the gougères with a small amount of the reserved beaten egg, being careful not to smash them or let any excess egg fall on the parchment, which will prevent them from rising. Sprinkle the tops with the finely grated Comté. Bake until the gougères are puffed, nicely browned, and feel light for their size, 22 to 25 minutes. Serve warm straight from the oven or let cool completely.